Q: We have a 1973 camper with a 5.7L V8 engine that has fuel injection. We haven't been able to start the engine even though it turns over. Is it safe to spray ether starting fluid in the carburetor air intake horn?
A: Well, if you have fuel injection, you don't have a carburetor air intake horn. You have fuel injection or carburetors, not both.
Before you start spraying ether into the intake of whatever you have, has anybody determined if there's spark? Or fuel delivery? Or compression?
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Q: I thought I was pretty smart when I could fit a 10 foot length of PVC sprinkler pipe inside my '03 Crown Vic by bending it over the front seat. But, then I broke off the rear window defroster connector when removing the pipe. How do I reconnect this tab? I don't want to crack my window by trying to solder it.
Q: I have a good one for you. Around a year ago I replaced the front wheel bearings and cv shafts on my 1997 Honda Civic. I noticed about six months ago that the wheel bearing went bad so I replaced it. A month later it sounded like my cv shaft was bad so I replaced it again, and while I was at it I replaced the bearing as well because it developed a flat spot. A week later the bearing went bad again, and within the last 8 months I've replaced them 5 times on the passenger wheel and 4 on the drivers side. What is going on?
A: Ohhh, this is a good one. I've seen it before. There's nothing wrong with your bearings, spindle, suspension upright or wheel. At least until the bearings fail.
Your battery ground strap is not connecting the engine block to the battery negative terminal properly. I know, I know—what is Allen talking about? What could the ground strap have to do with the bearings?
The poor ground path is making current flow to the starter motor by the lowest-resistance path—right through the axles and the CV joints, and then—you guessed it—the wheel bearings. The high current is making little arc strike marks on the balls and races inside the bearings, which soon fail.
The battery ground needs to make a really low-resistance connection both to the chassis of the car and to the engine block. I'm guessing yours is loose, missing or corroded. Let me know what you find, eh?
own a 2002 Honda S2000, and the convertible top will soon need replacing.I checked prices online and it appears I can purchase a new quality top for approximately $650.00; however, the real problem is the installation. Locally, the job prices around $2,200 for everything, including the price of the top. Is there any company that sells the tops with installation instructions, hardware, etc? I would really appreciate your insight and comments regarding tackling this repair, and any additional sources for obtaining additional information.
A: So the estimate for installing this top is on the high side of fifteen hundred bucks for the labor. Ouch.
I've never installed a convertible top, although I have tackled a couple of old-fashioned cloth sunroofs. It's fussy, painstaking work to make it all fit. If that were my car I'd probably leave it for someone who installs tops all day long all week long. It's too easy to tear an expensive top, and you stand a good chance of getting it on just off-kilter enough to not function properly.
Q: On my 2005 TrailBlazer when activating the high beams, the low beams turn off. I discovered that I can manually hold the turn signal in which is the flash-to-pass feature and have both high and low beams together. The high-low combination provides much better lighting when high beams are appropriate than just the high beams only.
Is there a relay kit that allows both high and low beams to stay on? There are DRL which use the low beam bulbs and the fog lights, if activated, turn off when high beams are on. I don't want to do any rewiring which may short out my electrical system. I'd like to find a kit where I could just plug in some wiring harnesses.
Why do the low beams turn off when the hig beams are on anyway? I have a 2008 Nissan Rogue and the low beams stay on when the high beams are switched on.
A: Some vehicles use a bulb that has both high and low beams in the same glass envelope. While it's okay to run both filaments for brief periods, I'd be worried about overheating the housing if they both ran continuously.
But why not burn both filaments if they are in separate bulbs? The Daytime Running Lamp module might find this okay, or it might have hissy fits. A relay to burn the low beams wouldn't be tough to rig up. But I'd just add some aftermarket driving lights.