HOW TO: 4L60E swap to T56 (LS1 F-body)

how to swap body

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WS6SP33D said: 11-06-2011 12:40 PM

HOW TO: 4L60E swap to T56 (LS1 F-body)

Sure it may have been posted but heres the tut made a few years back. Additional LT1 info posted in the bottom link with part #'s

OK. Here is a parts list needed for swapping out a 4L60E for a T56 in an LS1 Fbody:

master + slave cylinders (prefer 01 up) (also, master cylinder u-bolt and nuts)

new pedal assembly with clips for clutch rod and brake rod

new console tray with shift boot, and lower shift boot (upper shift boot comes with tray if purchased from GM)

pilot bearing, bellhousing, T56, crossmember, T56 torque arm mount and bolts, shifter

pressure plate, flywheel, clutch, and all related bolts and clutch tool

You will need to have your PCM flashed to a 6spd PCM, but you do not need a new PCM


REWIRING instructions: (disconnect battery, and dismantle the park/neutral switch)

connect the orange w/ black stripe and the black wires directly together for the hatch release to work.

connect the purple w/ white stripe and the dark green to the clutch switch on the manual pedal assembly so the clutch pedal needs to be depressed before the car will start. Polarization does matter here. I forget which wire goes to each connector, but trial and error will solve this in 2 seconds. (do it right, use solder and heat shrink tubing).

connect light green and brown into the reverse switch located on the passenger side of the T56 for the reverse lights to work. You can buy the pigtail, or engineer a way to get the wires to hold and be protected. I put the wires in and pinched them into place. The pigtail will

run about $50 of unneccesary spending. Polarization does not matter. (again, use solder and heat shrink when you add wire to these).

Also, the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) will need to be cut, and elongated by soldering on about 6 inches of extra wire to each wire going into the connector. This VSS will plug directly into the VSS port on the drivers side of the T56 by the shifter.

WATCH THE FOLLOWING FUSES: starter, gauges, Turn/BU lights.

Troublesome parts:

The hardest part is mounting the master cylinder. Pulling the auto is no big deal. You will need a long extension or two, and a swivel joint to get this thing out though.

The steering column will need to come out, but it is pretty simple. 6 bolts hold it in. 1 is under the hood at the joint in the column, 3 are on the firewall behind the pedals, and two are holding it to the underside of the dash. After these are removed and all electrical connectors are unplugged, wiggle it out of there. It should be free of any connections at this point, except the safety device on the top of the column. Follow the device that hooked to your auto shifter up to your column. Take this off. I believe it has 2 screws holding it in place. This locks the ignition until the car is in park. Since you no longer have "park", this thing needs to go.

Everything else can be found in the LT1 instructions below. They are almost exactly the same, except the wiring instructions. If you have any questions, send me a PM.

This whole conversion cost me only $2300. This can be done in a garage with jackstands and intelligence. Dont be stupid and attempt heavy lifting or dropping without help by your side.

Last edited by WS6SP33D; 11-06-2011 at 02:50 PM.


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