How much is a k20 swap

how much is a k20 swap

2000 Civic EX K20 Swap - Hella Stock Build

The car 2000 EJ8 Coupe, 71.5k miles, purchased in '05 with just over 26k :

The reason for the season

:

20k mile complete K20Z3 from a wreck.

Reasons for going K

More power = more fun to drive

6 speeds

Potential for better MPG with K-Pro

Chance to get an even cleaner lower mileage engine. (And my D16 was pretty clean to begin with

)

Swap goals:

Keep it as stock as possible without killing performance

Keep cost to a minimum

Don't cut corners

This car has been, and will remain a daily driver, for the time being at least. If I end up keeping and swapping my D16 into another shell eventually, I might change the goals of this car.

Parts List (Pics to follow as they are installed)

Engine related/General

-'06 Si K20Z3

-Hybrid Racing conversion harness, Type-S Engine + Charge Harnesses, ECU

-K-tuned Immobilizer delete

-K-tuned RBC Throttle body adapter + Type-S Throttle Body

-Hybrid Racing Tucked Fuel Rail & lines, JEGS inline filter

-Si A/C Compressor, Hybrid Racing A/C lines

-Type-S P/S Pump, Hybrid Racing Fitting, Flex-a-lite 3810 Transmission Oil Cooler, 3/8" hydraulic low press hose, custom high press hose

-Type-S OEM Serpentine belt

Mounts, Tranny, & Drive train

-EG/DC2 (92-95 Civic/94-01 Integra) Subframe /w Rebuilt Integra P/S rack, '99 'Teg u-joint

-Hasport Black EKK2 kit from JHPUSA.com

-PNN4 Transmission with LSD, Type-S shift mechanism and cable stay, Hybrid Racing Speed VSS converter

-Hybrid Racing Bolt-in Shifter

-Type-S Cables with Hybrid Racing pillowball style bushings

-K-tuned Clutch Line

-Drive Shaft Shop Stage 0 Axles

Cooling System

-Hybrid Racing/Griffin 1/2 Width Drop in Radiator /w Fish Smelling Hoses

-Straight-blade 1200CFM Slim radiator fan from JEGS (52131)

-OEM Thermo Unit

-Type-S coolant switch (Acura P#: 37760-P00-004)

Exhaust System

-Complete TSX Exhaust from the headers to the Cat

-Type-S Cat-back

This is temporary. The exhaust is one of the easiest things to modify, so I don't have any heartburn about running it this way for a bit. Got the parts for next to nothing.

Eventual things to add to the car, daily driver or not:

-Better suspension, to save the oil pan and make it more fun to drive. I'd do a straight Integra spring swap right now if I could find some 00-01 springs from a non Dukes of Hazard car.

-K-Pro (I know, you don't have to tell me. I'm back off to work as soon as the swap is done, so it's not going to see many miles without it.)

-EK9 Folding mirrors. They're just for decorashun, that's it and that's all. No really, not a bad thing to have in tight spots

The build.

After over 6 months of planning and work-related delays, I finally got the D16 out over the weekend. It was my first time pulling a car engine, so it took me most of a day, but I was being pretty careful.

Awwwww, what a happy family. I should take another one with my better camera and the rags off of my D16.

Doing a little touch up in some needed areas. Shoulda been a bit more careful when I swapped in the Integra booster/MC during my rear disc conversion

High performance engine bay fan. +10 horsepower

Paint used was Dupli-Color Deep Jewel Green. Learned about it from kommon_sense's build .

I think it might be an even better match to my paint color, Clover Green Pearl (G-95P) than the 96-98 version, Cypress Green Pearl (G-82P.)

What a dirty bay/subframe:

Begone!

95 Civic P/S Subframe with Integra rack, prepped and ready to go:

This thing was diiiiiiirty when I got it! Cleaned it with abrasive hand cleaner to get the grit off, sanded and scotch-brighted it to prep for paint, then used Rust-Oleum Primer->Flat Black Protective Enamel->Glossy Clear coat on the frame. I used Krylon Primer and Semi-flat Black on the pylon blocks (for lack of a better word.)

A good friend raised and lower the frame on his tranny jack (same guy who introduced me to K-series engines

) while I fiddled with the steering u-joint.

Another good-guy,

far wiser than myself advised that I take precautions not to let the wheel rotate too much with the joint off, to avoid breaking the cord-reel. On top of locking the wheel before the stock subframe came off, I grabbed a tie-down out of the truck and did this:

It's dirty I know

Full detail coming after the important stuff is done.

When I was actually lining up the joint I didn't need that precaution, but it helped prevent any accidents when I was getting it ready and the column was unlocked. I should note that the keyway for the bolt on the end of the column is only a slot, as opposed to a ring that goes around the whole column, so you want to hang the joint on the column after using it to get the rack generally centered (by going from lock to lock, counting the number of turns, and then doing half of that, in reverse from one lock.) Another random tip is that if you want to move only one tooth when adjusting, what worked alright for me was locking the wheel, holding it against one side of the lock range, to the right for instance, then having your buddy lower the rack (you kind of need a buddy for this) then turn it all the way to the left of the allowable "locked range" and have your buddy raise the rack up again. That seemed to get me one tooth of movement. (The above scenario would be used if it took sliiiiiightly more turning to the right than the left, and you thought you were off by one tooth. By moving the wheel one tooth left, or counter-clockwise relative to the pinion you are essentially moving the pinion gear one tooth, on the splined shaft, to the right with the wheel centered.)

But you knew that already.

So when I finally had it where I wanted it we discovered a problem. The mount bracket for the giant Charcoal can was right in the way. I think this might only be a 99-00 EK problem because I haven't seen it mentioned before. Probably just haven't been searching hard enough. Anyways, not a big deal if you have a 5/16ths spot/weld cutter (the welds are 1/4"). that is if you know where the phantom weld is. Two are right on top of each other. That provided some entertainment:

The 5th spot-weld right next to the bottom right spot weld was impossible to see on my ride. If you are having trouble getting yours off, the red X marks the spot. This might just be a 99-00 issue.

Speaking of spotweld cutters, I did something incredibly stupid with mine earlier today. I ordered some Innovative mounts a few months back and somehow ended up with an EG kit. Dunno how it happened but after reading a post somewhere that the front end of an EK is essentially the same as an EG after doing the subframe swap I assumed nothing was wrong. Well we all no what assumption leads to:

WHOOPS!

Good news is, I used a genuine spot-weld cutter and I hadn't shaved the nubs yet, so getting it aligned perfectly is no big deal. Too bad I don't have a welder. yet. More money spent, but the glass-half-full in me sees this as a good opportunity to get back into welding. A good stick welder is only a couple hundred bucks..

I decided to go with Hasport mounts this time because I want to be able to have two adjustment settings for engine height. Plus, a black-kit is available through JHPUSA.com. I never got the Innovative mounts in, for obvious reasons, so I have no comments on their fitment. I had been thinking about Hasport for a while so this was just a reason to go with them.

That's pretty much it for now. Things are kind of on hold until I weld that bracket back in and the new mounts get here. Painting the spot where the charcoal can bracket came off tomorrow and mounting the subframe.

Another thing slowing me down is that the serpentine belt I just ordered from Delray Acura is still somewhere in the midwestish and won't be here until Tuesday next week. I know it should be possible to change the belt in place, but for obvious reasons, I'd rather do it when the engine is off the car if at all possible.

Oh, I had my fuel injectors cleaned too. Very good service from RC Engineering, I highly recommend

More soon

Source: www.k20a.org

Category: Forex

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