How to balance a tire
My left front tire shakes at 30 mph Bearing is good
I have read forum posts back to 2005 on tire balancing
from the posts below, I am going to either go to a motorcycle shop. to have them balanced (from prior posts - anyone do this?)
or use the spin the tire with the loose bearing and put a weight opposite? From posts I need more info some posts say you do not put the weight opposite low heavy side.
These are a collection of posts
I read the pros and cons on dynabeads confused by the pro and con on dyna beads
old posts on the subject for future reference
Guys, you don;t need that modern stuff to balance wheels. You have a built-in balancer - the front wheel spindle. Fred Houston presents in the MTFCA video on wheel balancing. Loosen bearing, wheel will automatically turn to have heavy side of tire on the bottom, add weights to rim 180 degrees to balance.
I have Dynabeads in the '26 Runabout. Made a noticable improvement in the ride. Don't care how they work, the end result is the proof.
May see ya at the Vintage Car Club of Ocean County show in Seaside Heights tomorrow. if it doesn't rain. Rain date next Sunday
I've been reading about balancing tires. Someone mentioned that they used solder wire. So since I had some I tried it. Took out the bearings and cleaned them. Reinstalled the tire with the clean bearings. I slowly rotated the tire a few times and found the heavy side and marked it with tape. I then pulled off a length of solder and wrapped it around the opposite spoke and duct taped it in place. After about 9 0z of solder a spinning wheel will stop at most any spot. Although this works I am wondering about how long this solution will stay in place. I have been looking for stick on weights. NAPA sells them but they want to sell them at $70 per box. Any ideas of where I could get some weight at a cheap price or maybe a better solution?
I have bought the self-adhesive lead weights from O'Reilly Auto Parts. A package costs 3 or 4 dollars if I remember correctly. They work well for me.
Dyna-Beads work well with large diameter tires or tires that rotate fast. They do not work well with low profile but very wide tires. They work very well on our Speedster, infact Dyna-Bead has our #22 Speedster in its advertisement.
The issue with weights on a spoke, such as solder, is that the weight should not be opposite the heavy place. It should be split in half and moved away from the opposite or light spot. O believe that the ratio is .7854 percent of the diameter. Go out and take a look at your modern car's wheel weights. There are always at least two and they are placed away from the light spot, one on the inside and one on the outside. As the weight is moved from the light spot it needs to be increased.
Dyna-Beads take the guess work out of the issue and they are always in ballance as the tires wear out or in, how ever you want to call it.
Dave, I tried the wheel spinning trick and the wheel would always stop in a different spot. But as I drove I could tell my wheels were out of balance. Just like you mentioned around 30 mph the car felt uncomfortable to drive. I finally put in Equal (similar to Dyna-beads). As soon as I put them in she drives very nicely at any speed. I know how they work but I won’t bore you. They just work as you stated. It was easy to install and instantly I had results I wanted with no thinking or visual affects.
Haven't use the beads, but that seems good too.
For me, since using a bubble balance and solder, the tires are in balance in my driving, no cupping or other tire wear that would show extreme out of balance or alignment either. Used metal weight on rim to get bubble balance, then used same weight of solder wrapped to the spoke where balance was done.
Was the low buck solution. Used Seals All epoxy glue dripped on the solder wrap to keep it there, hasn't budged in many years now.
Folks Harbor freight has a wheel balancer for about 60 dollars It says accepts hub size from 1.5 to 4 inch Anyone use this balancer?
I have never balanced A tire. I figure try and get a bubble balancer from Harbor freight and try these procedures tomorrow Anyone try this? ANy suggestions?
Inflate a tire on a rim to the proper air pressure as indicated on the sidewall.
Place the center rim hole onto and over the bubble balancing cone. This cone will be tapered and will allow the rim hole, on virtually any tire, to fit securely onto the cone.
Read the bubble indicator at the center of the balancing cone. In virtually all cases, the bubble will be floating well off to the side to show an unbalanced tire.
Balance the tire by making the bubble move directly to the center of the indicator. Pick up two wheel weights and place them on the side of the tire that is closest to the bubble. This will slightly tip the tire upward and cause the bubble to move towards the center of the indicator.
Move the weights along
the side of the rim until the bubble is directly centered. This will be a trial-and-error procedure, as you may have to use heavier or lighter weights while positioning them at various places around the tire. When the bubble remains directly at the center of the indicator, you will have found the correct position and weight distribution.
Use your hammer to secure the weights to the rim in the exact positions that you have determined. Most automotive weights have rim clips that pound easily onto the rim edge. Some weights are self-adhesive and can literally be stuck into place.
Flip the tire over onto the bubble balancer, and repeat the procedure.
The rim clip weights work great on '26-'27 Ford split-rim demountables. They will not work on '26-'29 Ford wire wheels or clincher rim demountables. For those you can wrap wire weight onto spokes (held with a little epoxy), or use the stick-on flat weights available from many auto supply stores. The flat stick-on weights can be used outside or inside the felloe. If used inside the felloe on the felloe, centrifugal force could pull the weights off and leave them bouncing around inside (they tend to take paint with them). They can also be put on the rim so that they will hide inside the felloe. Centrifugal force then works in your favor. But they can make it tough to get the rim on or off the wheel. Non-demountable wheels are the toughest. There is no place to hide the weights. Like T wire wheels, about all you can do is wrap some lead wire around the ends of some spokes or use narrow flat weights on the clincher rim where it shows.
With demountable rims, I have wrapped the weight around the rim bolts inside the felloe. There is not much variable spacing to get the balance right, but for model T speeds, you can sometimes get close enough.
Drive carefully, W2
One other comment. I used some clip-on weights on 21 inch wood wheels on a speedster one time (no fenders). It was interesting when it flew off. Fortunately, there wasn't anyone else nearby to get hit by it.
Drive safe, and enjoy, W2
Find the weight to equal the load and split it in two. Take .7854 of the diameter and split the weight on the diameter at .7854 of the diameter. One weight inside and one outside of the rim. You never ever see a balanced tire with only one weight. They alway split the difference and space it at .7854 or one fourth of PI.
I use Dyna beads and they constantly are at work. Four ounces are good five are better. The fellow with 9 ounces needs nine ounces of beads.
My experience with Dynabeads is no noticeable improvement under about 60km/h (
35mph). The sound of them rolling around inside the tyres at low speed is quite novel, however. Considering how much they cost in this part of the world, I wouldn't bother with them again.
I use Dynabeads. They can be a pain in the neck to install, but once they're in there, the darn things work beautifully! Well worth it.
Some statements from a guy that has used static (bubble) balancers and dynamic (spin) balancers. With spin balancers if the weight is too large it is normal to split it and put one weight in front and one in back. Newer machines will in fact tell you to do this. I know of no one that spin balances T wheels. This leaves you with a bubble balancer or the loose bearing method. Adhesive weights are available and they do work. Some can even be cut to size. Way, way back when dynamic balancers first got popular the boss used the line; "What good is a tire that's balanced when the car's parked"? Again, few choices with the T. Advice? Why spend the cash on a bubble balancer when the loose bearing method and a little time will work just as well? Beads are of course you're choice. I have not yet been able to get a general consensus by users as to the low speed effects of having 4 ounces (or more) of weight floating around inside a tire. I have seen the effects of water in a tire and it ain't pretty so I'm off 'em.
I see you quoted my post on DynaBeads.
"I have Dynabeads in the '26 Runabout. Made a noticable improvement in the ride. Don't care how they work, the end result is the proof.
May see ya at the Vintage Car Club of Ocean County show in Seaside Heights tomorrow. if it doesn't rain. Rain date next Sunday"
I still enjoy the ride.
I have Dynabeads in my Montana 500 car. From a standing stop I can feel tire imbalance until about 35 mph, then everything smooths out and stays that way until I come to a complete stop. The initial imbalance is not bad, in fact it is barely perceptible. I think the beads start doing their thing right off the bat, but don't get up to full speed until about 35 mph.
Bless you Tom. I've finally heard what I've suspected all along. Hey Bob: post some details on the show. First I've heard about it.
UPDATE bought tire balancer and weights
one wheel was 9 ounces out of balance
that caused the wobble
bearings checked good and regreased
morale when you get a new car check the tire balance along with everything else
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